1.Leaves a mess for days (or months)

Your daily kitchen cleaning might focus on the dishes rather than on the oven itself, but a few tweaks will go a long way. Not only does it make months of buildup harder to clean up, but it can also lead to smoke. Failure to clean up spills after each use of the oven can quickly build up and may smoke during preheating the next time. “If you use a drip tray, don’t forget to remove it and remove grease and drips after each use.”

2. Leave messy food on the oven floor

To make those everyday spills easier to clean up, it’s a good idea to catch crumbs and splatters before they reach the bottom of your oven. An empty drip tray or cookie sheet should be placed on the bottom for easier cleaning, or just add a disposable oven liner.

3. Put in frozen food that needs to be defrosted

You might think it would save time to let frozen chicken breasts warm up in the oven before they’re completely defrosted, but unless you adjust the cooking time, you could be putting your family at risk of food poisoning. food poisoning. “If you put frozen or partially frozen food in the oven, the time will be turned off because it will need to be defrosted before cooking.” Ensure safety by letting food defrost completely before cooking.

4. Assuming the temperature is correct

Your oven measures the temperature at one point – where it’s intentionally off-limits, where your food will never fly away. Because your oven is hotter in some spots than it is in others, your food may not be cooking to the temperature you think it is. “An oven thermometer will help you make sure your oven is properly preheated and cook your food at the temperature you need it to. “It’s the best kitchen investment you’ll ever make.” This is why most recipes call for you to bake at 350°F.

5.Using the convection setting on the wrong foods

In addition to the standard grill setting, which heats the oven from one point, some models have a convection setting that uses a fan to distribute heat evenly. It doesn’t sound like much of a difference, but that circulating air makes food cook much faster, so your dish could be overcooked if you’re following a recipe. Unless a certain recipe says otherwise, stick with the grill setting. “If you’re making a single layer of cake and baking multiple layers at once, direct air circulation and heat removal is needed, so you want to choose convection baking,” she says. “This will help achieve even doneness and baking on all your layers.”

6. Leave the shelves in while self-cleaning

If the insanely high heat can remove grease and grime from your oven, leaving the racks in the self-cleaning treatment seems to make sense. But unless the manufacturer specifies that they’re designed for this feature, you’ll want to take them out. Most holders will discolor during the self-cleaning feature, and the coating that makes them easy to slide out can also be damaged. Sorry, but you’ll have to scrub them by hand instead.

7. Skip cleaning the nooks and crannies

You don’t even want to think about what’s hiding in the space between your oven and your cabinets. To help keep debris and spillage from attracting pests, wrap the butter knife with a damp towel, then rub it against the wall inside the crack. Hold the knife at an angle to prevent debris from falling to the floor, and shake debris in the sink or trash can out after each pass. When it looks clean, replace the cloth with a cloth moistened with vinegar and wipe the walls again.

8. Leave the buttons dirty

When you touch the oven knobs after handling food, you can bet you’ve left some germs behind. To make sure you’re touching every corner of the knobs, pop them off the stove before scrubbing. Cohen suggests soaking them in a bucket of warm water mixed with 1/4 cup of all-purpose cleaner to disinfect.

9. Cooking with wax paper

Wax paper and parchment may look almost the same, but that waxy substance makes a huge difference. While wax helps remove moisture, it’s not too hard on heat. Put it in a hot oven and it will melt—or worse, the paper could catch on fire.

10. Place items straight on the heating element

Your oven is hot, but not as hot as the heating element itself. While it’s rare that anything in your oven catches on fire, keeping those high-heat parts well ventilated can prevent any accidents.

Your carpet will naturally collect dirt and dander over time, so you need to vacuum it often. Depending on how heavily it’s used, vacuuming once or twice a month will likely be enough for maintenance. Choose a vacuum with a suction attachment, which will clean your carpets better than a standard rotary vacuum.

Do deep cleanings every few months to go beyond the scope of a quick vacuum job and get your carpets good as new.

One big caveat: Wall-to-wall carpeting and area rugs aren’t the same things, so don’t assume you can use the same cleaning methods. Make sure your rug can handle a deep cleaning before you begin. If you have a vintage rug or one made of delicate materials, you’ll want to take it to get hand-washed with a pH-balanced shampoo every three to five years.

In addition to deep cleaning, you’ll also want to rotate your rugs. “It helps to rotate your rug once a year to ensure even wear over time” . “And use a rug pad, which will prolong its life. If it’s a wool rug, let it sunbathe once a year.” Sun helps sanitize wool, but be careful of color fading. And whatever you do, avoid steam cleaning because it will damage the carpet.

Before you begin

When creating a game plan for how to clean your carpet, carefully read the labels on all products you plan to use. Typically, the label will let you know if (and how) you should test on a small, inconspicuous area to ensure you don’t accidentally harm your whole carpet.

Once you’ve treated a small section of your carpet, wait a few hours to make sure there’s no adverse reaction such as a change in the color or texture of the fibers—before you proceed to clean the rest of your carpet.

How to do a routine cleaning

People with allergies and asthma understand the importance of regular carpet cleanings, but even if your immune system doesn’t alert you when your carpet is filthy, you’ll want to do routine cleanings. Plus, if you spill something on your carpet, you’re going to need to treat the stain immediately.

Vacuum your carpet

Start by vacuuming your carpets and rugs a couple of times a month to remove dust and dander. And if you’re getting ready to deep clean or spot clean your carpets, you’ll want to vacuum first every time. Debris stuck in the fibers can block your ability to get through to those stains.

Hyman also suggests shaking out your rugs a couple times a month. Every few months, flip your rug over and vacuum the back. “This will get the grit out of the foundation of the rug,” he says.

Spot clean your carpet

It’s important to know how to clean a carpet by hand. You’ll thank her for the tips the next time you need to remove gum or chocolate stains from a carpet.

Get pet hair out of a carpet

Pet hair can be a nightmare to remove, but there’s a trick that will save you tons of time: Sprinkle the area with baking soda; then vacuum it up. The baking soda will lift the pet hair from the carpet.

Get pet stains out of a carpet

They look bad and smell worse, but stains from your pet’s accidents are pretty easy to remove. Here’s how to clean dog pee from carpet: Use a paper towel to blot up as much of the urine as you can. Then mix equal parts white vinegar and warm water in a spray bottle. Spritz the area to get rid of the odor. Blot this mixture with a paper towel once again.

If that doesn’t do the trick, try one of these products specially formulated for getting pet urine out of carpets.

Get blood out of a carpet

Nosebleeds, household injuries… We get it. Bloodstains are tough to avoid and even harder to get out of carpets. Thankfully, you have options.

Maker uses a mixture of two parts hydrogen peroxide and one part dish soap. Wet a cloth with the mixture; then blot the stain with it. You can also try removing bloodstains by mixing cold water and white vinegar, then soaking the stain for a few minutes before using a paper towel or microfiber cloth to blot it.

Get wine out of a carpet

This stain in particular often triggers panic, but if you’ve spilled red wine, there’s hope for your carpet yet.

To clean up a red wine stain, blot up as much as you can. Then sprinkle salt or baking powder (generously) on the stain, giving it a few minutes to settle before you vacuum it up.
Get paint out of a carpet
Craft project gone awry? It may look bleak, but paint is actually easier to remove than it sounds. This is how you get paint out of carpet: First, identify the paint. Is it oil-based or water-based? Water-based paints will be much easier to clean up since many are water-soluble.

How to deep clean your carpet

Regularly running the vacuum over your carpets is great, but that’s not going to give your carpets a just-like-new look. That’s why you need to deep clean them a few times a year.

Deep clean by hand

Using a carpet-cleaning machine is your best bet for a thorough clean. If you don’t own one and don’t want to rent one, there’s a DIY solution.

Sprinkle baking soda over the surface of your carpet.
Mix carpet shampoo (that you’ve color tested) with warm water; then add the mixture to a spray bottle.
Spray the cleaning liquid over the carpet.
Brush with a carpet brush.
Blot the area.
Spray again with warm water only.
Blot the carpet again.
Yes, it’s time-consuming, but it’s more cost effective than buying or renting a carpet-cleaning machine.

Use a carpet-cleaning machine

Carpet-cleaning machines get a bad rap for being big and bulky, but these days, there are smaller machines that can really simplify carpet cleaning. If you don’t see yourself using a carpet-cleaning machine that often (or if you don’t have the room to store it), you can rent one from your local home improvement store.
Remove furniture and anything else on the carpet.
Vacuum the area to pick up loose dirt.
Pretreat stains that will need extra attention (and remember to do a color test before using a new cleaning solution).
Choose the formula to add to your cleaning machine (Pro Max Clean and Protect will do the trick).
Start your engines! Begin in the farthest corner of the room (so you don’t get trapped mid-room surrounded by wet carpet). Pushing your cleaning attachment forward and backward with the spray button pushed down. Follow that with the same movement without the spray button pressed. Do this throughout the space until you’ve cleaned the entire carpet.
Rinse. You don’t have to, but it’s a good idea to refill your machine with warm water and repeat the process.
Let it dry. Wait four to six hours before putting your furniture back or walking on the carpet.
Hire a pro
If you’re not up for renting or buying a machine, and if a stain is really stuck on or your carpet looks like it’s on its last legs, the answer to how to clean a carpet may be to hire a pro. Professionals use detergents and steam to really get in there, and commercial machines are beasts when it comes to getting bacteria and dirt out of any pile of rug. If your home has wall-to-wall carpeting, you might want to do this once a year.

No matter how neglected or greasy you think your range might be, there’s hope. With a small investment in time and a little bit of persistence, you can get your stove back in peak condition and looking as good as new.

Step 1: Before You Start, Make It Safe

The first thing you should always do before cleaning a gas appliance is to make sure that the surfaces are completely cool and the control knobs are switched to the off position. If your model is equipped with a control lock, you should definitely take advantage of it before you start cleaning. You’re going to be removing the burner guards and scrubbing your stovetop pretty vigorously, and it’s essential that the gas doesn’t come on while you’re working.

If you have an older style range with removable knobs, just make sure everything is switched to the off position and remove the knobs so you don’t accidentally bump them while you clean.

Step 2: Let the Disassembly Begin!

Your gas stove has a few basic parts that pop right off for easy cleaning: the stove grates on top, the burner caps and the burners themselves. Start by removing the stove grates, and then take a moment to wipe up any loose food particles that are hanging around. Next, pull off all of the small caps that are protecting your burners, followed by each of the burners themselves. Set all of those items to the side on a couple of dish towels close to your sink; we’re going to deal with those later on.

Step 3: Degrease the Stove Grates

Place your stove grates in the sink and give everything a thorough soaking with a non-toxic degreaser. You can also use a concentrated dish detergent if you prefer; you might just have to scrub a little more. Leave everything to soak in the degreaser for about 15-20 minutes while you turn your attention to the stove surface.

Step 4: Degrease the Stovetop

Give your stovetop a heavy spritzing of the same degreaser or liquid soap concentration and give it a few minutes to really penetrate the greasy buildup. Use your soft scouring pad to break up any bits that are burned or stuck to the surface. As you work, take a clean paper towel and routinely wipe down the stovetop and lift out all of the grease and grime. Depending on your stove’s level of buildup, you may have to repeat the process of applying degreaser and scrubbing until your paper towels start coming up clean and free of any oil or grit.

Step 5: Combat the Baked-On Stuff

You’re likely to encounter a few places where the food is cooked on to the point where a sponge just won’t cut it. Or, you might find that there are a few little gummed up corners that are difficult to reach with your hands. For the hard-to-reach stuff, try a medium-stiff nylon scrub brush or an old toothbrush. Before you really start scrubbing away, it’s a good idea to test your brush in a discreet spot on the stove to make sure it’s not going to scratch the surface. Work your brush along with some degreaser into all of the corners and around the igniters to loosen any grime.

For areas that seem like they’ve permanently bonded themselves to the surface forever, you can try using a fresh razor blade to peel up the grime. Be extremely careful if you go this route and make sure you don’t scrape the paint. You just want to break up the surface of the burned bits so the degreaser can penetrate and loosen them up. Take your time and work gently. You might not get it 100 percent perfect, so don’t fixate on the one burned spot that won’t come off; sometimes in life it’s just good to let the little things go. Besides, we’ve got a trick further down that might help you cover up some of those blemishes.

Step 6: Give Everything a Final Polish

Once you’ve degreased and scrubbed everything, you’ll want to use some fresh paper towels and wipe off any excess degreaser. Wipe everything down until it’s dry, then using some glass cleaner and a Magic Eraser, give everything a final wipe down. The Magic Eraser will lift off any small residual bits of grease and pick up any of the degreaser residue so it won’t leave a cloudy film on your stovetop. Once your Magic Eraser comes up clean, you’re ready to move on to the next step.

Step 7: Now, About Those Parts You Removed

Now that your stove grates have had some time to marinate in the degreaser, you’ll want to give them a quick rinse with hot water to wash away the majority of the grease. After that, give the grates and your burner caps a good scrubbing with your nylon brush, and use a little soap or degreaser if you need to combat any difficult spots.

When it comes to the burners themselves, we recommend washing those in hot water while giving them a gentle scrubbing with your nylon brush. Don’t put any aggressive cleaners or solvents on your burners since they come in contact with your stove’s gas outlets. You don’t want any clogs or residual buildup that could cause ignition problems.

Once everything is clean, place your stove parts on a towel and let everything dry completely before you reassemble your stovetop.

Step 8: Reassemble and Add a Layer of Protection

Now that you’ve invested so much time getting your gas stove back into peak condition, it’s a good idea to consider adding a guard around the burners. When you’ve finished a marathon cooking session, it’ll be easier to wipe the guard down or simply replace it when the time comes. Additionally, if your stovetop is scorched beyond rescue, this is a great way to hide the unsightly surfaces.

Stove Guard Stovetop Protector

Make sure to put your stove guard in place (and remove any stickers) before you put your burners on . Then, reassemble your stove in the opposite order of disassembly. Start with replacing the burners. Don’t worry if you’ve forgotten where they go; each one is unique to its particular location and will only fit its designated spot. Top your burners off with their caps and give every burner a quick test light. Once you’re satisfied that everything is in working order, put the stove grates back on , and you’re ready to cook!

How to Interpret the Cleaning Codes

Don’t ignore the owner’s manual! Always look for information about your upholstered items. This information may be in a care pamphlet delivered with the product, or a tag is sewn into a seam, and it should tell you what it’s made out of, and how to safely clean the material. Here are some common codes found on labels:

WS: Use a mild detergent with a steam vacuum or a dry-cleaning detergent

S: Use a dry cleaner detergent only.

X: Use a vacuum only. No water.

W: You can use water to clean it.

Don’t Scrub – Start by Blotting Liquid Spills

Use an absorbent cloth to first blot at spills and moisture to quickly absorb them. This will help reduce the chance that the stain will get “rubbed in,” and it’ll help to collect the liquid that’s soaking into foam layers beneath the upholstery. The more liquid you can absorb by blotting, the less internal damage that happens to your furnishings.

Try to Steam Clean Tough Stains

You might expect that you’ll just have to live with the dirty armrests or dried spills for the duration of a seat’s existence, but steam cleaning is relatively effective at lifting embedded dirt from the fabric. You’ll probably find that your steam mop for the floors is an acceptable tool for this task – especially if it comes with a detailed cleaning attachment. Always use a low-heat setting, and test in an inconspicuous spot to make sure that the fabric doesn’t have an unexpectedly negative reaction to the heat. Do not use steam heat on the upholstery that is made of – or contains – silk.

Don’t Use Plain Water to Clean Microfiber Surfaces

Water can lead to dried watermarks and spots on microfiber upholstery. Rubbing alcohol is better for cleaning microfiber. Apply it with a spray bottle, and use a dry, clean cloth to lift the stain as it loosens.

Choose the Right Vacuum Attachment

There’s the actual rationale for using all the different vacuum attachments that came with your high-end product.

Cleaning pet fur in the home with a vacuum

The airflow attachment, for example, is the one that looks like a smaller version of your vacuum and creates airflow during use that operates the spinning brushes. It’s more gentle than the actual vacuum, smaller, which makes it easier to get into small crevices, and it does a great job at getting pet fur off upholstery because it brushes the surface while extracting the dust and debris.

The more formal upholstery brush attachment is the one that looks more like a lint brush, with softer bristles that lift dust and help to reduce pilling.

Use Caution When Applying Fabric Protectors

UV- and stain-repellent sprays can help keep upholstery looking its best and make messes easier to clean, but over-penetration of the sprays can have an adverse effect, too. Too much chemical saturation can cause stains and excessive scrubbing wear and tears on the materials. It can also cause irritation on sensitive skin or to pets who nap and play on the upholstered surface.

Avoid Fabric Softeners

Don’t confuse “softeners” with leather conditioners – you should totally be conditioning your leather upholstery. What we’re saying here is that for any washable upholstery, avoid using fabric softeners. Use “free-and-clear” detergents that don’t contain scents or dyes, and opt to line dry or dry flat, rather than putting upholstery through the dryer.

Remember to Rotate the Cushions

Avoid the dreaded butt dent and added wear to the fabric on the most sat-upon surfaces by rotating the cushions.

How to Clean Upholstery

If your upholstery can be cleaned with a water-based cleanser, you can do this with a few simple ingredients. A spray-on stain remover can be used for any tough spots, just like in washing laundry. Spray your stain remover and wait for about five minutes. While you wait, mix four parts of warm water with one part of laundry detergent. Use a rough sponge or a soft bristle brush to apply the cleaning mixture to your upholstery. Scrub along the grain of the fabric until you have lifted the dirt and stains. Use a damp, clean cloth to wipe away any remaining suds or dirt. You can leave your upholstery to dry or use a wet/dry vacuum to remove the remaining moisture.

1. Use mouthwash to disinfect your toothbrush

Each time we use our toothbrushes, we may be transferring bathroom bacteria directly into our mouths. If you’re someone who flushes the toilet with the lid up, then you could be spreading waste particles around the room, which can settle on surfaces and objects.

Therefore, it’s recommended to sanitize your toothbrush in mouthwash for 2 minutes after using it.

2. Clean your oven with 1/5 cup of ammonia

Simply heat your oven to 150ºF then turn it off and place 1/5 cup of ammonia in a bowl on your oven’s top-shelf. Place a bowl of boiling water on the shelf below and close the door, leaving them to do their thing overnight.

This will help the grime to drop off from your oven, helping you to easily wipe it clean the next day.

3. Microwave your sponge

Our dish sponges collect large amounts of harmful bacteria that we don’t want to then transfer to our dishes while washing them. To sterilize a sponge, you should wet it completely before placing it in the microwave for 1 minute.

The extreme heat will zap any bacteria growing in your sponges. Repeat this every few days when your sponge starts to smell.

4. Clean your wooden kitchen tools

Our wooden spoons can suffer in the kitchen, especially if they get put into the dishwasher or are left to soak. To keep them healthy, it’s recommended to rub them with a slice of lemon in order to stop any unwanted smells to permeate. You can also coat them with vegetable or coconut oil for a little tender loving care. This will make them shine and protect them from harmful moisture.

When they’re exposed to too much moisture, they grow mildew, which isn’t the most hygienic thing for your cooking vessels.

5. Wipe down your windowsills regularly

Because windows and windowsills can collect condensation, they can be a prime breeding ground for fungi and microbes. Make sure that you don’t forget about these hotspots that can be harboring a concentration of bacteria due to the damp environment of the window.

6. Shampoo your hairbrush

Our hairbrushes are often neglected when it comes to cleaning, even though they may be carrying a lot of dirt. This is because our hair can develop a buildup of pollution and everyday germs when we’re out and about, which then gets transferred to our brushes.

It’s advised to clean your brush once a month by removing old hairs and shampooing it overnight before rinsing it clean.

7. Disinfect your yoga mat with apple cider vinegar

Yoga mats can pick up tons of bacteria, not only from the dampness caused by our sweat but also from being placed on floors, especially at fitness centers. Therefore, it’s recommended to clean your mat every time you use it. Simply wipe it down using a cloth and equal parts water and apple cider vinegar.

The vinegar will act as a disinfectant, giving your mat a fresh makeover.

8. Clean your silver jewelry with soda and salt

To restore them back to their original glory, you should line a tray with aluminum foil and add 2 tablespoons of soda and 1 tablespoon of salt. Place the jewelry on top and cover it with boiling water.

By leaving this to soak overnight, it will dissolve the dirt and tarnish that collects on our silver accessories.

9. Clean your keyboard with gel

Cleaning slime can be very practical for removing the buildup of dust and dirt from small spaces, and it’s very easy to make at home! You’ll need to mix 1 cup of warm water with borax in a bowl and 1/2 a cup of warm water with glue in another bowl. Combine the 2 mixtures and stir until it becomes firm — then knead it into a hard ball.

Bonus: Use a mesh bag in the dishwasher

To make sure that everything is properly washed in the dishwasher, it’s important to use a mesh bag to keep the smaller items together. This stops the smaller pieces from slipping down into the washer and not getting sterilized properly.

What tricks do you use to combat germs? Please share them to help us all fight them off!

Eggshells

You might think that a crushed up eggshell will go down the drain smoothly, but it actually is causing a blockage. The sharp, hard edges of the shell will collect other things coming down your drain and eventually cause a clog.

Grease

When you pour grease down the drain, it sticks to the inside of your pipes and the pipes in the street. This can cause the entire pipe to become clogged over time. Other oil-based products are also dangerous to pour down your drain, such as cooking oil, salad dressings, butter, mayonnaise, and fat. If needed, make sure to let the grease cool first, then dispose of it in the trash instead.

Flour

Flour coagulates when mixed with water. This can clog your pipes by coating the edges and catching other bits of disposables trying to make their way down. Always throw your flour, whether mixed with water or not, in the garbage.

Medication

If you flush your unused or expired medication or crush it up and pour it down the drain, those chemicals will be leaked back into your drinking water and the environment. Always make sure to dispose of unwanted medication at your local pharmacy or police department, which will have access to medical waste disposal units.

Produce stickers

Many times people wash their fruit and forget to take the sticker off; it falls in the sink and you eventually just let it go down the drain. Peel them off before you wash your fruit and dispose of it properly. Those little stickers don’t dissolve in water and can clog your pipes and block screens and filters or pumps at the water treatment plant.

Coffee grounds

Coffee grounds build up in your pipes and cause blockages. Plumbers say they are the most common cause of drain problems. You should always dispose of coffee grounds in your trashcan or use them for composting (don’t forget the coffee grounds at the bottom of your mug).

Products claiming to be ‘flushable’

Products claiming to be “flushable” such as certain brands of cat litter and wipes still create a high risk of clogged drains. Cat litter is still highly absorbent after you flush it and toxins from cat feces may get leaked into the ocean and harm marine life. Flushable wipes also don’t break down properly and often get caught on other things creating large clots in pipes.

Condoms

Condoms are made of latex, which doesn’t disintegrate in water, so never, ever flush them. Throw them in the trash or dispose of them at a waste treatment center. If you flush them, they may end up in the ocean and marine life often mistakes them for food and chokes.

Cleaning products

Even though most cleaning products are liquid, they should never be poured down the drain because they contain harmful chemicals. Many contain phosphates, antibacterial agents, and other compounds that aren’t removed at the water treatment plant and can be hazardous to the ecosystem.

Paper products

The only paper product that should go down your drain is toilet paper. It has been specially designed to break down and disintegrate in water. Always dispose of other paper products such as paper towels, cotton balls, and feminine hygiene products in the trash. These items are extremely absorbent and will easily clog your pipes.

Expandable food

It’s OK to let some food run down the drain, but a lot of it expands when mixed with water and can lead to a block. Pasta and rice are two foods to watch out for. Also, pastas are made with flour, which will become sticky and catch other things in your pipes.

Paint

Similar to cleaning products, paint should never be poured down the drain even though it’s a liquid. It has the potential to pollute the environment and cause your drain to clog. Many towns have hazardous waste facilities where you can safely dispose of your old or unused paint. Next, read about the foods you should never keep in your pantry.

But don’t be intimidated—you don’t need to memorize the Uniform Plumbing Code or pass your state’s licensing exam to maintain a plumbing system free of leaks, clogs, and sewage backups. It’s more a matter of implementing habits and routines that will help you minimize
Here are 6 things professional plumbers always do in their own homes to keep things running smoothly.

1. Plumbers always put food waste into the trash or compost bin

Dumping bacon grease or the remnants of your toddler’s lunch into the sink and running the garbage disposal might seem like the quick-and-easy way to plow through a stack of dirty dishes. But it’s actually a terrible habit that can really wreak havoc on your plumbing system

A better plan? Scrape your plates into the garbage can, and pour grease into an empty can that also goes in the trash. Composting is an option, too, if you have a way to dispose of the compost. Some cities offer compost pick-up, and many people use compost in their gardens.

Why is this so important? Grease sticks to the walls of your pipes and eventually clogs your drain. And the garbage disposal is not designed to break down and process things like meat, eggshells, and coffee grounds. Putting these items down the drain and running the disposal will overwork and eventually damage the device.

2. Plumbers flush their water heater regularly

If you find yourself standing in a cold shower every morning or hearing weird sounds coming from your water heater, it might be time to ask yourself if the unit has been flushed lately. Or ever.

Why is this necessary? Over time sediment builds up at the bottom of your water heater tank. This sediment can damage the appliance, making it inefficient or even inoperable. Flushing is particularly important in areas with hard water.

Fortunately, performing this annual to-do is not complicated. And while you can certainly hire a plumber to flush a water heater on your behalf, many DIYers are perfectly capable of doing the job.

3. Plumbers use a smart device to check for leaks and drips

“(The device) basically monitors for fluctuations in water pressure and any type of leaks that may occur”. “It is a really useful device.”

If you’re not ready to add a smart home leak monitor, remember to keep an eye out for leaks and drips. This is typically done by simply listening for the sound of rushing water or that tell-tale drop-drop sound. You can also go through your home and check each faucet.

“The sooner you catch stuff with good routine inspections, the cheaper it is to fix” .

4. Plumbers always use a no-frills plunger

Sometimes, back-to-basics is best. Case in point: toilet plungers. You can buy all sorts of gimmicky, overly engineered plungers, but the ones that work best are the good old-fashioned.

Why? Because they quickly and effectively do the job they are meant to do—unclog a toilet. Plus, they are easy to clean. “Fancy” plungers, with their air holes, tempered handles, and drip-free magnetic collars, cost more and don’t do anything to help make plunging more pleasant. Save yourself the trouble by sticking to the original version, even if it doesn’t look as good in the corner of your bathroom.

On a related note, when you’re shopping for a plunger, add a basic pair of safety goggles to your car. Plunging can be an extremely dirty job and you’ll want your eyes protected.

5. Plumbers change their water filter cartridges

If you use a plumbing-integrated water filter of any kind—whether it be a faucet filter, refrigerator filter, under-sink filter, or a whole-house water treatment filter—it’s essential you do exactly what a plumber would do and change those filter cartridges regularly.

Generally, change the filter every six months, but this can vary based on use and manufacturer’s recommendations. Check the owner’s manual for your particular device.
Because the filter collects various contaminants that could be in your city’s water system. (If you’re not sure which contaminants your filter blocks, this handy database can tell you.) In some cases, this is mostly about taste. Other times, it is about health. In either case, you want your filter to do its job. If you fail to change the filter, it can get dirty and clogged, rendering it useless.

6. Plumbers check their water pressure at least once a year

Water pressure that is too high or too low can be problematic, not to mention annoying. This is why plumbers check the water pressure in their homes at least once a year.

What can go wrong if you don’t keep tabs on it? Well, with low water pressure, you’ll experience things like slow flow in the shower or a washing machine that takes forever to fill. High water pressure can lead to leaks, wear-and-tear on your appliances, and even burst pipes.

While it can vary by city code, in general, the water pressure should be set to a maximum of 80 PSI. This will allow you to easily rinse the shampoo out of your hair in the shower while also keeping your pipes in one piece. Checking your water pressure is really easy. Just pick up a water pressure test gauge, secure it to your hose or faucet, turn on the water and wait for the reading to register.

If your pressure is too high or too low, you’ll need to seek help from a plumber or determine the cause of the issue and make the repair yourself. There are numerous causes of high and/or low pressure, but one possible fix for low pressure is the installation of a water pressure booster pump.

Cleaning gone wrong

You probably feel good after you complete a household cleaning task; it’s not much fun, but needs to be done and is definitely beneficial. Or is it? Frustratingly, there is a right and a wrong way to clean. Find out if you’re making any of these mistakes that could actually be sabotaging your home’s cleanliness.

Mistake 1: Using the same rag around the house

Why it’s dirty: Despite spritzing it with a cleaning solution, when you use the same rag in multiple spots around the house, the rag hangs on to the grime from the previous surface and spreads it to whichever surface it touches next. That means bathroom germs get wiped onto kitchen counters, the living room coffee table, and anywhere else that cloth is used, definitely making this one of the ways you’re cleaning your kitchen all wrong.

How to fix it: Use a new wad of paper towel for each surface cleaned, or have a microfiber cleaning cloth designated for each area of your home. Microfiber cleaning cloths can be tossed in the laundry or thoroughly washed after each use to remove gunk or grime.

Mistake 2: Using a feather duster

Why it’s dirty: No matter how much the advertisements for these dusters say the feathers “trap and lock dust,” they don’t. Feather dusters are notorious for spreading dust around a surface or pushing it off to fall to the ground, rather than removing it.

How to fix it: Use a microfiber cleaning cloth or a disposable paper towel with an appropriate cleaning solution, depending on the surface being dusted. The idea that feather dusters actually “dust” is one of the common cleaning myths you can stop believing.

Mistake 3: Not cleaning the vacuum

Why it’s dirty: When a vacuum filter hasn’t been changed or cleaned in a while, not only is the vacuum unable to pick up as much dirt and dust as it should, due to decreased suction, but dirt also is blown back into the air and carpet by the dusty vent.

How to fix it: Change or empty vacuum bags or canisters immediately after they become full. Wipe vacuum attachments, the hose, and the vent with either a damp microfiber cleaning cloth or a moist paper towel, double-checking that the vacuum is unplugged first.

Mistake 4: Tossing any kitchen tool into the dishwasher

Why it’s dirty: Smaller kitchen tools like a garlic press, zester or cheese grater have small nooks and crannies that a dishwasher isn’t always able to blast. When food is left in these tools, it can become moldy and get into food the next time it is used.

How to fix it: Skip the dishwasher and wash by hand with dish soap and hot water, paying particular attention to corners and small holes. You can also try these other helpful cleaning tips for hard-to-clean objects.

Mistake 5: Placing a toilet brush back into its holder immediately

Why it’s dirty: If a toilet brush is put right back into its holder right after use, the moisture and germs from the toilet get trapped in the container and the brush, where they breed and multiply. These germs are then rubbed back into your toilet the next time the brush is used.

How to fix it: After scrubbing, allow the toilet brush to dry completely before returning it to its holder—voilà, you’ve eliminated one of the most common ways you’re cleaning your bathroom wrong. However, maybe it’s time to ditch the toilet brush entirely. If you’re not interested in keeping and cleaning a toilet brush, try out a toilet wand with disposable heads instead.

Mistake 6: Skipping the sink

Why it’s dirty: Whether it has a standard drain or a garbage disposal, sinks rapidly grow germs and bacteria due to being a moist environment where food particles tend to get stuck. This issue is compounded when food or standing water is left in the sink, the drain or the garbage disposal.

How to fix it: Wipe down the sink after each use. You should also try out these home cleaning hacks from professional house cleaners.

Mistake 7: Cleaning from the ground up

Why it’s dirty: When sweeping, mopping or vacuuming the floor before cleaning the furniture, dust, and crumbs fall from tables, counters, and shelves, requiring you to re-clean the floor.

How to fix it: Clean a room from the top down. Start with windows, working down to tables and counters, chairs and couches, side and coffee tables, ending with the floor. You’ll also want to try these 35 nearly forgotten house cleaning tips from the past.

Mistake 8: Spraying cleaner directly on a surface

Why it’s dirty: Spraying a cleaner directly onto furniture, countertops or glass can cause a buildup of the solution, leading to greasy furniture and surfaces, and streaky windows. This also could cause dirt and dust to stick to them more firmly.

How to fix it: Spray cleaning solution on a microfiber cleaning cloth or disposable paper towel, then wipe down surfaces. Don’t miss these household products that kill the coronavirus.

Mistake 9: Not cleaning the washing machine

Why it’s dirty: The skin cells, dust mites, and stains from clothes can linger in a washing machine drum as well as on the lid or door and detergent dispenser. This leads to washing clothes in dirty water, and eventually, they’ll turn stinky.

How to fix it: For a top-loading washer, start it on its longest and hottest wash setting. When the drum is nearly full of water, pour in 1 liter of vinegar and 1 cup of baking soda, leaving the lid open and allowing the mixture to sit in the paused cycle for at least an hour. While the cycle is paused, clean the lid and any other visible nooks and crannies. Close the lid, allowing the wash cycle to run. Repeat vinegar and baking soda wash, if needed, then wipe down the inside of the washer and leave the lid open to allow the washer to dry completely.

For a front-loading washer, pour a solution of 1/4 cup each baking soda and water into the detergent compartment and pour 2 cups of vinegar into the drum. Set your machine to the hottest temperature and let it do its thing. When the cycle is over, wipe the drum clean, along with the door, detergent compartment, and exterior. Pay extra attention to the gasket. Remember to leave the door ajar between loads for the best air circulation. Bet you didn’t know that you should absolutely be adding these ingredients to your laundry.

Mistake 10: Washing a cutting board with dish soap

Why it’s dirty: While dish soap and hot water remove visible food residue from a cutting board, the cuts in wood and plastic cutting boards trap microscopic food particles. These breed bacteria that transfer to any foods you prepare on that cutting board.

How to fix it: Don’t put it in the dishwasher! A wooden cutting board can warp and crack, while a plastic cutting board can melt in the hot water and steamy environment of a dishwasher. Instead, soak your cutting boards in hydrogen peroxide or a bleach solution (2 tablespoons of bleach and 1 gallon of water), rinse with water and dry completely.

Many individuals also prefer washing their hands with foaming soap because of how nicely it lathers and how easily it washes off the hands. Liquid soap can be sticky, which makes it take longer to wash it off of your hands.

While you can buy premade foaming soap, making your own homemade foaming hand soap is actually quite easy. With just a few simple ingredients and a foaming soap dispenser, you can have your soap made and ready to use in no time.

Be sure to purchase a foaming soap dispenser before making your own foaming soap. These dispensers feature a special air chamber that pumps air into the soap as it is released. Without this addition of air, foaming soap won’t foam up; it will just come out as a liquid mess.

Continue reading to discover how to make foaming hand soap!

TOOLS & MATERIALS

• Foaming hand soap dispenser
• Castile soap
• Essential oils
• Carrier oil

BEFORE YOU BEGIN

The foaming soap recipe below uses water, liquid castile soap, and essential and carrier oils. However, this is not the only way you can make foaming hand soap. As an alternative, you can also just mix liquid hand or dish soap with water to make a DIY foaming soap. If choosing this method, use a 4:1 ratio of water to soap. Combine the two ingredients in your foaming soap dispenser and turn it or shake it to ensure they mix together.

STEP 1: Fill the soap dispenser with water, leaving space for more ingredients.

The first step for how to make foaming soap is to add water to your foaming soap dispenser. You should fill the dispenser approximately two-thirds to three-fourths with water. Take care not to add too much water, as there needs to be space left to add the other ingredients.

Before adding water to your dispenser, ensure that it is clean. If you’re reusing a soap dispenser, take a few moments to make sure the interior is completely rinsed out and to wash the exterior to eliminate any germs.

STEP 2: Add 2 tablespoons of castile soap.

To make foaming hand soap, start by adding 2 tablespoons of castile soap to the water in the dispenser (this amount of soap is appropriate for a 12-ounce soap dispenser). Castile soap is naturally biodegradable and non-toxic, making it an excellent choice when making your own foaming hand soap. Castile soap is made from plant-based oils— typically olive oil— and doesn’t have any synthetic ingredients or animal fats.

You can also find castile soap that is made using other oils, such as castor, coconut, or almond. These added ingredients can make it more moisturizing, and these also can be used to make foaming hand soap.

STEP 3: Add about 10 drops of essential oils of your choice.

If you’re wondering how to make foam soap that will have a pleasant scent, the key is to add essential oils. There are many different options to consider when deciding which essential oils to add. You may choose essential oils based on their scent, or opt for those with antimicrobial properties, such as tea tree oil, eucalyptus oil, or lemongrass oil.

Add 10 drops of the essential oil of your choice to the foaming soap dispenser. You can add 10 drops of one essential oil, or you can also consider mixing two different oils (five drops of each) for a more customized scent. A few different combinations to try include:

• Lavender and rosemary
• Frankincense and orange
• Lemon and rosemary
• Lavender and chamomile
• Peppermint and eucalyptus

STEP 4: Add up to 1 teaspoon of carrier oil for moisture.

As you plan out your foaming hand soap recipe, don’t forget about adding a carrier oil to the mix as well. Carrier oils, such as jojoba oil, coconut oil, olive oil, or sweet almond oil, can help make your foaming soap more moisturizing, which can be especially beneficial during cold and dry winter months.

STEP 5: Secure the lid and shake the dispenser to mix all ingredients.

After adding the water, castile soap, and oils of your choice, close the dispenser and shake it to finish making your foaming hand soap. Shake and turn the dispenser around for 30 seconds to 1 minute to ensure all the ingredients are incorporated. You may need to periodically re-shake the bottle to keep the oils from separating from the water.

After mixing, your DIY foaming soap is ready to use right away. Press on the pump to dispense some on your hand and try it out!

Now you know how to make foamy hand soap. With just water, castile soap, essential oils, and carrier oil, you can easily make your own foaming hand soap to reduce water waste and save money. Try using different essential oil blends to match each season and the preferences of the various members of your household. Remember, in order for your soap mixture to foam, you’ll need to use a foaming soap dispenser.

Ditch The Drips

Try stretching a large rubber band around a paint can from top to bottom, so that it stretches across the middle of the open top. Use the rubber band as a paintbrush scraper so that excess paint drips back into the can, instead of leaving a mess along the outside of the can.

Wax Creative

Do your dinner parties end with you scraping candle wax from the tablecloth? Never again! Protect your table from candle drips by wrapping a large rubber band around the base of the candle. The band catches drips before they hit the table. Bonus: You can use a rubber band to keep a candle from wobbling in the candle holder.

Grip ‘N’ Go

If you have a mop, broom, rake, or shovel with a broken grip, use several wide rubber bands to create a comfortable and secure new handle. Simply wrap them around the end of the pole as far down as you normally hold the handle. Now, wave goodbye to blisters!

A Screw Loose

Stripped screws are no joy but you can work around them if you know what you’re doing. To remove stripped screws, place a rubber band flat across the top of the screw head. Then, push a screwdriver over the rubber band, letting the rubber fill in the indentations in the screw head. Slowly and carefully turn your screwdriver counter-clockwise to remove the screw. You may need to reposition the rubber band several times if the screwdriver breaks through the rubber.

Faux Finish

Patterned paint rollers and stampers may be all the rage—but who needs them! By wrapping several rubber bands around an ordinary paint roller, you can create striking faux finishes of your own design. When you roll the paint onto the wall, a textured pattern remains, courtesy of the rubber bands.

Open Wide

If that pickle jar resists your best efforts to open it, wrap a wide rubber band around the lid and twist. The rubber band makes a great non-slip gripper to make opening jars a snap.

Control Curious Kids

Childproofing the home is important with little ones running around—but attaching gadgets and gizmos to every surface of the house can really add up. Here’s one affordable idea to keep in your back pocket: Tie rubber bands around kitchen cabinets knobs to create an effective toddler lock. Simply stretch thick rubber bands tightly between the cabinet knobs to lock them in place, and rest easy while the young one explores.

Cord Corral

Bring some order to the cord chaos behind your desk, entertainment center, or anywhere electrical cords get tangled. Wrap excess lengths of cord in rubber bands to keep them neat and tidy. Extra points if you color-code each rubber band to help you identify which cord belongs to which appliance.

At A Glance

Need a little extra paint for a quick DIY project? This simple trick will help you determine which leftover paint can can do the job simply by scanning the shelf. When you’re done with your next paint job, mark the “full” line with a rubber band. Well, now aren’t you the organizing pro?